Title : Beyond traditional sunscreens with Helioglo: Iminodiacetic acid-derived guerbet surfactants for advanced sun protection
Abstract:
South Africa exhibits a significant burden of skin cancer, with both melanoma and non-melanoma types primarily caused by prolonged UV radiation exposure. In 2019, global estimates indicated that around 1.6 billion working-age individuals were exposed to solar UV radiation during outdoor activities, contributing to nearly 80,000 skin cancer-related deaths worldwide. This trend is particularly concerning for lower-income groups, such as farm workers and gardeners in South Africa, who often lack access to effective sun protection. Moreover, conventional sunscreens typically contain UV-blocking agents like zinc oxide and oxybenzone, which have been linked to environmental damage and potential health risks, and their high cost further limits accessibility. This study investigates the synthesis and comprehensive chemical characterisation of amino-acid based surfactants designed for integration into sustainable cosmetic formulations, with a particular emphasis on a sunscreen product branded as Helioglo. The surfactants were synthesised through organic synthesis methodologies that ensure high purity and structural integrity while adhering to principles of environmental sustainability. Structural confirmation via spectroscopic techniques (e.g., NMR and FTIR) validated the formation of the targeted molecular architectures. Characterisation via tensiometers confirmed desirable surface-active properties, and UV absorbance analysis demonstrated effective broad-spectrum photoprotective capabilities when incorporated into the sunscreen. Furthermore, the biodegradability and non-toxicity of these compounds position them as environmentally responsible alternatives to conventional surfactants. Overall, this research not only enhances product performance through innovative chemical design but also deepens our understanding of the structure–activity relationships critical to efficacy in cosmeceutical applications.
